Ōsode

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おおそで 大袖

In noh, ōsode refers to garments with large, open-cuff sleeves that are worn as outer robes by a variety of characters, including aristocrats, samurai, and monks. Also known as "wide sleeves" (hirosode), these garments come in various tailorings and materials.

Noh Kyogen

Tailoring

All ōsode except the mizugoromo 水衣 have sleeves constructed of two widths of cloth. The sleeves on many are only sewn to the main body panels around the shoulders. The ōsode garments may have round or straight or V-neck collars. Some have loose front and back panels, while others have front and back sewn together at the side from the hips down. Others have cloth strips that attach bottom edge of the front panels to the back panels.

Types of ōsode

Large ōsode worn for male roles include the round collared kariginu 狩衣 and the straight-collared happi 法被, while dancing cloaks worn for female roles consist of the chōken 長絹 and the maiginu舞衣. The mizugoromo can be worn by both men and women of all ages and various professions. Suits with upper and lower garments made of the same material (often hemp or ramie), such as the hitatare 直垂 and the suō 素襖, have jackets with broad sleeves.

Contributor

Monica Bethe