Surihakuのソースを表示

すりはく　[[摺箔]]　

A '''''surihaku''''' is a small-sleeved (''[[kosode]]'' [[小袖]]) noh costume of soft silk patterned with stenciled gold or silver foil and worn for women's roles under ''[[karaori]]'' [[唐織]] or ''[[nuihaku]]'' [[縫箔]] . Although often glimpsed only at the upper chest, in some outfits the left sleeve or the whole upper portion of the surihaku is exposed.

=Noh Kyogen=
[[Category:noh|costume]]

==Roles and Draping==
''Surihaku'' are undergarments worn primarily for women's roles. The surihaku is laid over the actor's shoulders,  crossed snugly over the chest, left lapel over right, and then bound at the waist with a sash. For a standard woman's role in the first half of a noh, a karaori is draped  in ''kinagashi'' style with the collar left open, which  leaves only a small portion of the surihaku visible. For roles of women who are crazed (Sakagami in ''[[Semimaru]]'' [[蝉丸]]) or doing manual labor (Courtesan in [[Eguchi]] [[江口]]), the karaori is draped in ''nugisage'' style, with the right sleeve slipped off, so the surihaku is exposed on half the  torso.  The entire upper portion of the surihaku is visible when combined with a nuihaku folded down at the waist in ''koshimaki'' draping (''[[Hagoromo]]'' [[羽衣]]).

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00001/no33-00001_003.jpg
http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00002/no33-00002_003.jpg
http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00005_003.jpg

==Textile Features and Tailoring==
While Momoyama-period ''surihaku'' are generally made from plain weave silk with glossed wefts (''nerinuki''), Edo-period ones tend to be made of satin (''shusu''), warp-faced twill (''aya''), or figured satin (''rinzu''). Repeat patterns are cut into paper stencils (''katagami''). The stencils are placed onto the fabric, adhesive applied through the holes, and then metallic foil (gold or silver) placed over the stenciled area while the adhesive is still wet. When it dries, excess foil is brushed off to reveal the pattern, which is repeated over the entire costume, or only in designated areas. Often the lower portion of a surihaku has little or no decoration, as it is always covered up when worn. 

==Designs and Coloring==
Repeat geometric patterns, like checker blocks, interlocking circles or triangles, woven fence, and key-fret designs are common. Free-flowing designs, like scrolling vines, wind-bent grass, or swirling water create poetic effect. The majority of ''surihaku'' are white; but red, light blue and yellow one are also found, as well as ones with bands of differing colors. When bits of embroidery are used as highlights the costume is called a ''nui-iri surihaku''.

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costumes_23/no23-00007.jpg

Surihaku with design of dew-laden grasses on a white ground. 18th century. Tokyo National Museum.

http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0019074

==Contributor==
Monica Bethe

----