Happi

はっぴ　法被

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Noh Kyogen

[[Category:noh|Happi]

Roles and draping

For demons and lesser deities, the happi is belted over hangiri 半切 with the wide sleeves falling free. Various headdresses and wigs distinguish the characters. Warriors might wear the happi with the right sleeve slipped off (nugisage) so they can wield a sword or halberd (Yashima 屋島 or with both sleeves hiked up (Funa Benkei 船弁慶. The Chinese boy who guards the elixir of long life, Kikujidō, also has the right sleeve slipped off, but carries a round Chinese fan.

Textile features and Tailoring

The happi has double-width, open cuffed sleeves attached around the shoulder area to three-quarter length body panels. The front panels have no extra lapels, but are edged by a straight collar. The cloth bands at the hem of the body panels connecting front to back at the side are a salient feature. Lined happi are woven with a twill or satin foundation and supplementary weft patterning, often in gold or silver thread. The gossamer unlined happi are woven in simple gauze weave (sha) or ribbed gauze (ro) with supplementary patterning in gold, silver, or colored threads. Some happi have stenciled or painted designs.

Designs and Colors

Lined happi have bold designs that are often geometric or suggestive of Chinese imagery, with larger motifs predominantly used for stronger characters, like demons and bandits. Background colors may be white, blue, green, or purple. Unlined happi can be either plain or patterned with arabesques, insects, flowers, or court motifs (yūsoku monyō on white, blue, green, or purple grounds. (MB)

Unlined happi with karahana flower patterns on a green ground. Edo period. Tokyo National Museum.

http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0065512