Suōのソースを表示

すおう [[素襖]]
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A '''''suō''''' is a broad-sleeved (''[[ōsode]]'' [[大袖]]) noh costume. It is a matched suit made of unlined hempen fabric with dyed designs and used in noh and kyōgen for roles of commoners and samurai. The matched suits combine an upper jacket with pleated trousers.  

=Noh Kyogen=
[[Category:noh|suō]]

==Roles and Draping==
Samurai wore suō during the Edo period, and in noh and kyōgen the costume is used for corresponding roles, like Sano no Tsuneyo in ''[[Hachi no Ki]]'' [[鉢の木]]. The shite of ''[[Matsumushi]]'' [[松虫]], a commoner, wears a simpler version combining the suō top with ''[[ōkuchi]]'' [[大口]]. 

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00029/no33-00029_002.jpg

==Tailoring and Textile Features==
Like hitatare, suō are tailored from plain weave hemp fabric that has been dyed with paste-resist designs. The paste may be applied through a stencil to form repetitive patterns, or through a funnel to create free-hand painterly designs.

Basically an unlined ''[[hitatare]]'' [[直垂]], the suō  upper garment has open cuffs, double-width sleeves and short front panels that are tucked into the pleated trousers, which come in two styles: the formal long trailing ''[[nagabakama]]'' and simplified ankle-length ''[[hanbakama]]''. The upper garment can also be worn with unmatched trousers, like ōkuchi. The suō differs from the hitatare in having family crests at the center back and sleeve seams and in lacking the reinforcement cloth strips and tassels on the sleeves. 

==Designs and Colors==
Family crests are placed high along the center back seam and sleeve seams. Designs may be small motifs in white stenciled repeats on a blue, brown, green, or black background or they may be large painterly hand-drawn designs incorporating four or five colors. Some suō designs make dynamic use of large color blocks. Below is an example with a jagged "pine-bark" separation of back and tan blocks.

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costumes_23/no23-00016.jpg

Suō with rain dragons in diamonds on a black and tan divided ground with pine-bark lozenge border.

http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0059498

==Contributor==

Monica Bethe