Noshimeのソースを表示

のしめ　[[熨斗目]]

A '''''noshime''''' is a small-sleeved (''[[kosode]]'' [[小袖]]) noh costume of a plain weave silk, either monochrome or with bands of different colors worn for lower-class male roles. In noh, noshime serve as  undergarments for a variety of characters, especially monks, common men, low-ranking samurai, and sometimes old women. In kyōgen, noshime are also used for characters of daimyō.
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=Noh Kyogen=
[[Category:noh|noshime]]

==Roles and Draping==
Traveling priests wear plain-color noshime under a ''[[mizugoromo]]'' [[水衣]], with or without ''[[ōkuchi]]'' [[大口]]. Servants don a noshime under ''[[kamishimo]]'' [[裃]] matched suits with wing sleeves, while daimyō wear them under the more elaborate ''[[hitatare]]''  [[直垂]] matched suits. When preparing for action, the outer jacket might be shed, exposing the noshime tucked into the pleated trousers in a draping known as ''mogidō''. 

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00016/no33-00016_003.jpg
http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00015/no33-00015_003.jpg

==Textile features and tailoring==

Glossed silk wefts are woven in plain weave into raw (unglossed) silk warps. A wavy texture can be added by varying the thickness of some of the threads. Noshime are tailored in a standard T-shape kosode with the outer edge of the sleeves below the wrist opening sewn together. 

==Designs and Colors==
While many noshime are a single solid color, such as navy, brown, green or tan, some have horizontal bands of contrasting colors or bands of tie-dyed (''kasuri'') checks. Very often the waist area is left white (''koshiaki'') or filled with textured checks. Stripes and bands are considered higher class than simple plain-colored noshime.

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costumes_23/no23-00006.jpg

Noshime. brown with blue band at the waist. 18th century. Tokyo National Museum.

http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0009038

==Contributor==
Monica Bethe