Kataginuのソースを表示

かたぎぬ　[[肩衣]]
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A '''''kataginu''''' is a sleeveless hemp upper garment worn by servants and commoners in kyōgen. Pattern-dyed, the kataginu is generally combined with short pleated trousers (''hakama'') or with pantaloons bound at the calf (''kukuribakama'').

=Noh Kyogen=
[[Category:noh|kataginu]]

==Roles and draping==
The kataginu is emblematic of kyōgen costumes and worn for a broad spectrum of roles. The servants Tarō-kaja and Jirō-kaja wear kataginu over hakama, as does the [[ai-kyōgen]]. Active characters combine the kataginu with kukuribakama, while messengers might slip off the right sleeve.

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/ky33-00003/ky33-00003_002.jpg
http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/ky33-00002/ky33-00002_002.jpg

==Tailoring and Textile Features==
Basically the same as the top of a ''[[kamishimo]]'' matched suit, the unlined, plain weave, hemp vest has two back panels that are about hip length and stitched together with a center seam. The front panels are pleated so they form wing shoulders and converge into  broad bands that run down each chest and are tucked into the trouser belt. The rectangular  back of the kataginu is decorated with stenciled or hand-drawn paste-resist designs or painted  designs. 

==Typical designs and motifs==
Old kataginu generally have small repeat patterns of white on a solid blue or green or grey ground, while later Edo period and more modern kataginu  tend to have large pictorial designs, often homely in content: large insects, oversize flowers, birds soaring over reeds in water, or cherry blossoms falling into waves. Kataginu have dandelion crests at the center back and at chest level on the front pleated panels.

http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costumes_23/no23-00019.jpg

Kataginu with rabbits among waves, peony scrolls, and seaside bamboo grass on a black and light blue divided ground. 19th century. Tokyo National Museum.

http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0058481

==Contributor==
Monica Bethe
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