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かみしも[[裃]] ---- A '''''kamishimo''''' is a matched suit with sleeveless vest and pleated trousers (''hakama'') made of hemp and worn by lower samurai and commoners in both noh and kyōgen, On formal occasions, kamishimo are also worn by chorus and instrumentalists. ---- =Noh Kyogen= [[Category:noh|kamishimo] ==Roles and Draping== The kamishimo is worn over a ''[[kosode]]'' [[小袖]], typically a ''[[noshime]]'' [[熨斗目]]. The vest is tucked into the hakama, typicaly the formal, long, trailing ''nagabakama''. In kyōgen, high-ranking commoners, like the master in ''[[Busu]]'' [[附子]], wear a kamishimo with nagabakama. On formal occasions, the noh chorus members and instrumentalists wear kamishimo with ankle-length ''hanbakama'', or for ceremonial rituals with nagabakama. http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costume_drawings_33/no33-00015/no33-00015_002.jpg ==Tailoring and Textile Features== The top is basically a sleeveless ''[[suō]]'' [[素襖]], but the front panel has been pleated to form wing-like shoulder panels gathered into thin front bands. The pleated trousers, both long and short, are tailored like the suō hakama. Kamishimo for noh and kyōgen tend to be made of bast and dyed with paste-resist patterns, either stenciled or hand painted through a funnel. ==Designs and Colors== Family crests are placed high on the center back seam and at chest level in front. Designs include overall repeat patterns, broad stripes, and pictorial motifs in blocks of contrasting colors, typically white, tan, indigo and green. http://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/archive01/theater/th_image/PB/PJ/glopac/nogaku/costumes_23/no23-00018.jpg Kamishimo with scattered ''kemari'' balls on a blue ground. Edo period. Tokyo National Museum. http://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0065844 ==Contributor== Monica Bethe ----
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